Where do you get your fabrics from?

I’ve found some of my favorite fabrics in charity shops, called op shops in Australia, Goodwill in America…Some new and unused fabrics I got recently in the in an op shop. 

Where are the good places in your area or online for cheap / quality / beautiful / unusual fabrics? Let me know the good places you go - be as specific as you like,  and I’ll post them to help other sewing people get their hands on some great fabric.

The main places I get fabric are:

• Charity secondhand shops, I go often and if I see good fabric I get it whether I know what I’ll do with it or not. I look for fabric that has not been used because it is more likely to be in really good condition. I avoid curtains as they can have sun damage and the fabric might not last long. It’s a good idea to check the condition of everything very carefully. I also look for buttons, beads, clothes that I can repurpose for the fabric and things like unused zips and threads. I was also lucky enough to find a plus size dress maker’s dummy for AU$50 a few years ago. 
• The clearance table at Spotlight (fabric retail chain stores in Australia). I find a lot of retail fabric costs more than I want to spend, often I could end up spending more for the fabric than I could get a dress, skirt, etc for at a cheaper department store. So now I do the clearance table only, and I stock up when I see good stuff for AU$3 or AU$4 a metre.
• Wholesalers. Local and online wholesalers generally have things you won’t see in retailers, their prices are considerably cheaper, however some don’t sell to the public and they will have a minimum purchase, for some wholesalers that might be 10 metres/yards of each fabric, for others that might be a 100 or 1000 metres/yards. So it’s best to call and check before you go visit ones in your area. Online wholesalers often have a sample book they will sell you, so you can see and feel the fabrics before you buy. Wholesalers are good if you have sewing buddies and can buy a lot and split it up or if you have other people you make for.

Version two:  

basic dress and top in stretch knit fabric

Make a top or dress of any length, strappy or strapless, easily customised, make it the way you like. Simple to make, based on body measurements for a perfect fit.

This tutorial will be the dress and top combined. Unlike the first version of this dress, simple pattern pieces are ruled up and used to cut the fabric, as this is an easier way to work with stretch fabric. 

To make the top in a non stretch fabric, use the basic dress tutorial and make it to a top length. 

You'll Need

Roll of brown paper, available at some supermarkets, I paid about AU$2.60 for this 10 metre roll. You can use whatever paper you've got at hand and stick pieces together if you need to.

Ruler

Drawing paper 

Pencil

Sharpener

Eraser

Paper scissors

Light weight stretch knit fabric, such as t shirt jersey washed and ironed. Depending on how you want the finished dress to look, you may want fabrics in different colours.

Elastic, 2cm / .78 inches wide

Pins 

Small sharp scissors, not essential but useful

Unpicker, not essential but useful if you make a mistake

Safety pin

Chalk - a dress maker's pencil or a small piece of chalkboard chalk in a colour that will show up clearly on your fabric. You can use a coloured pencil, but you'll need to mark very lightly, as it might not wash off too well

Fabric or household scissors

Thread to match your fabrics, 3 to 4 rolls, as needed by your overlocker

Tape measure

Not pictured - overlocker, sewing machine and iron. A hand sewing needle is useful, but not essential.

The scissors, pins, unpicker, thread and tape measure are available at some supermarkets.

The wide elastic is available from fabric stores, you can also get it at online fabric/haberdashery stores and Ebay.

Measuring up

Width

To work out how much fabric and elastic you need, you'll need to take some measurements. 

To get the width of fabric needed, measure yourself where you are widest. If this around your breasts, wear the kind of bra you'll wear under the dress when you measure. If you are widest around your belly, hips, thighs, etc undress, so you are measuring just your body, not your clothes as well.

To your body measurement you can add some extra width, this gives the dress some fullness, some drape and room to move. For a fuller, more drapey dress/top, add 20cm / 7.8 inches, for a closer fit add 10cm / 3.9 inches. (I added this amount for the black dress) For a body hugging dress/top, use just the body measurement, with no extra (this is what I did for the striped top).

Body measurement  (+ extra)  = width measurement

For the black dress, using my measurements:

126cm + 10cm = 136cm

The width of each panel will be the same: the width measurement, divided by 2, with seam allowance added, 2cm / .78 inches seam allowance (1cm / .39 inches each side).

width measurement divided by 2 + 2cm / .78 inches seam allowance = panel width

For the black dress, using my measurements:

136cm divided by 2  + 2cm = 70cm

Length

The dress/top is divided into sections with bands to hold the elastic. 

                                  

Upper panels

To work out the length for the upper band and upper panel, put on a t shirt with a neck line about where you want the top of the dress/top to be. Start at the centre neckline with the tape measure, move across to measure from the about where the neckline is to just below your breast. This is the chest measurement.

                  

The basis for the upper panel measurement is your chest measurement minus 3cm / 1.18 inches (the upper band). to this add 2cm / .78 inches seam allowance  (1cm / .39 inches each side).

Chest measurement - 3cm / 1.18 inches + 2cm / .78 inches seam allowance = upper panel length

For the black dress, using my measurements: 

20cm - 3cm + 2cm = 19cm

Upper band

The upper band is a strip of material folded in half to house the elastic. The elastic is 2cm / .78 inches, adding 1cm / .39 inch for a little room to move. Double this measurement (for the fold) and add 2cm / .78 inches for seam allowance (1cm / .39 inches each side).

Elastic + 1cm / .39 inches x 2 + 2cm / .78 inches = upper band

For the black dress, using my measurements: 

2cm + 1 x 2 + 2cm = 8cm

Waist band

The waist band is two strips of fabric laid on top of each other that house the elastic. Same for the upper band, the elastic is 2cm / .78 inches, adding 1cm / .39 inch for  a little room to move. To this add 2cm / .78 inches for seam allowance (1cm / .39 inches each side).

2cm / .78 inches + 1cm / .39 inches + 2cm / .78 inches = waist band

For the black dress, using my measurements: 

2cm + 1cm + 2cm = 5cm

Lower panel

The length can be whatever you want. You can base the length on a dress/top that fits to a length you like, laying it flat and measuring it from the neckline to hem, then subtracting the chest measurement you took as well as 3cm / 1.18 inches for the waist band.  Alternately you can stand in front of a mirror with a tape measure, holding one end about 3cm / 1.18 inches below your breasts and raise and lower the other end until you find a length you like. If you are not completely sure of the length you want, you can make a rough estimate and get some extra fabric and play around with the length until you are happy with how it looks.

Before we finish the measurements for the lower panel, choose whether you want a plain hem or a frill, so you can add either extra centimetres / inches for the hem or seam allowance.

Lower panel with a plain hem

length + 1cm / .39 inches seam allowance (top edge only) +  2cm / .78 inches hem =  lower panel length 

For the striped top, using my measurements: 

21cm + 1cm + 2cm = 24cm

Lower panel with a frill 

length + 1cm / .39 inch seam allowance = frill length  

For the black dress, using my measurements: 

58cm + 1cm = 59cm

Frill

The basis for the width of the frill is the body width measurement for the dress/top, plus half again. 

width measurement for the dress/top  + half the width measurement for the dress/top divided by 2 + 2cm / .78 inch seam allowance  = frill width

For the black dress, using my measurements: 

136cm + 68cm divided by 2 + 2cm = 104cm

Length of the frill can be what ever you like, I used 9cm / 3.5 inches for the frill on the black dress. 

frill length +  1cm / .39 inches seam allowance (top edge only) = frill panel

For the black dress, using my measurements: 

9cm + 1cm = 9cm

Straps
The upper band elastic will hold the top up, so straps are optional. 

The straps are lengths of elastic with with a fabric cover. You want the elastic to fit snuggly into the fabric cover, so the width will be 4cm / 1.5 inches, the width of the elastic doubled for the fold and 2cm / .78 inches seam allowance, no extra. The elastic in the straps doesn't need a little room to move like in the bands.
2cm / .78 inches  (same as the elastic) x 2 + 2cm / .78 inches seam allowance = strap width
For the black dress, using my measurements: 
2cm x 2 + 2cm seam allowance = 6cm

For simple over the shoulder straps measure the straps of a dress or top that fits well, adding 8cm / 3 inches seam allowance (4cm / 1.5 each end) to the measurement. When the top is nearly finished, you'll be able to put it on and play around with how you want the straps to look. Because you don't need them to hold the dress/top up you can do something a little more unusual with the straps, add 10cm / 3.9 inches to give yourself some room to experiment if you want unusual straps. I made mine 80cm / 31 inches to begin with. 

Not to scale, below is all the fabric pieces you need to make this dress.

All the fabric measurements

A rough drawing with your final measurements will help you rule up your pattern pieces.

Upper band
Width
width measurement divided by 2 + 2cm / .78 inches seam allowance = panel width
Length
Elastic + 1cm / .39 inches x 2 + 2cm / .78 inches = upper band

Upper panel
Width
width measurement divided by 2 + 2cm / .78 inches seam allowance = panel width
Length
Chest measurement - 3cm / 1.18 inches + 2cm / .78 inches seam allowance = upper panel

Waistband
Width
width measurement divided by 2 + 2cm / .78 inches seam allowance = panel width
Length
2cm / .78 inches + 1cm / .39 inches + 2cm / .78 inches = waist band

Lower panel with a plain hem

Width

width measurement divided by 2 + 2cm / .78 inches seam allowance = panel width

Length

length + 1cm / .39 inches seam allowance (top edge only) +  2cm / .78 inches hem =  lower panel length 

Lower panel with a frill 
Width
width measurement divided by 2 + 2cm / .78 inches seam allowance = panel width

Length

length + 1cm / .39 inch seam allowance = frill length  

Frill
Width
width measurement for the dress/top  + half the width measurement for the dress/top divided by 2 + 2cm / .78 inch seam allowance  = frill width
Length
frill length +  1cm / .39 inches seam allowance (top edge only) = frill panel

Straps
Width
2cm / .78 inches  (same as the elastic) x 2 + 2cm / .78 inches seam allowance = strap width
Length 
simple straps: strap length from a top that fits well + cm / 3 inches seam allowance = strap length. Adding extra for unusual straps.

How much fabric and elastic you'll need

Fabric                                                                         
You can make changes to the dress/top along the way, but you need a good idea of how you want it to look before you get your fabric, if you want to use different colours.  A few quick drawings is a good way to play with ideas for different colours and patterns and will help you visualise how the finished garment will look. You can also try ideas for straps and frill versus plain hem. Once you've finalised your ideas, use the drawing along with your measurements to work out how much of each fabric you will need.                                               

Elastic

Using the tape measure, measure around your chest, about where you want the top of the dress to be and below your breasts, about where you want the waist of the dress to be. Add extra, about 10 cm / 3.9 inches to each, so you can adjust the fit later if you need to and add 2cm / .78 inches seam allowance.

The length of the straps can be based on straps of a dress or top that fits well, adding 8cm / 3 inches seam allowance (4cm / 1.5 inches each end) to the measurement. When the top is nearly finished, you'll be able to put it on and play around if you want straps that are  unusual. Allow extra fabric and elastic, more than you think you'll need for unusual straps. I made mine 80 cm / 31 inches to begin with.


Elastic measurements

Chest measurement + 1cm / .39 inches x 2 + 2cm / .78 inches = upper band

Waist measurement + 1cm / .39 inches + 2cm / .78 inches = waist band


Simple straps: strap length from a top that fits well + cm / 3 inches seam allowance = strap length. Add extra for unusual straps.

Add all these measurements together for the total length of elastic you'll need. 

Pattern pieces

Rule up and cut out the pattern pieces. 

Write on each pattern piece :

• Garment, eg strapless dress
• Pattern piece, eg upper panel
• How many need to be cut (see below) 
• The seam allowance
• Hem allowance, if applicable

                               

Laying out the pattern pieces

The straps should be laid along the selvedge edges. The selvedges are the edges that run the length of the fabric as it comes off the roll. The other dress/top pieces should be laid from selvedge to selvedge. The greatest amount of stretch will be from selvedge to selvedge, so laid out like this the pieces will stretch around the body, for the best fit. 

The best lay out will depend on the size of your pieces and the width of your fabric. All the pieces would not fit on at once with the fabric I had, so I cut the upper band, upper panel, lower panel and frill together and the waistbands and straps separately. 

Most pieces need to be cut out twice, so double the fabric over and lay the pieces out. Lay out 4 layers of fabric for the waistband. Pin to the fabric and cut. 

Sewing the pieces together

Lay the two upper band pieces right sides together and overlock one side seam only.
Repeat for all the other pieces, except the frill, overlocking one side seam only. The right side is the side that will show when you wear it. The wrong side will be on the inside. 

Fold the upper band in half, right side facing out. 
Lay the upper band along the length of the right side of the upper panel matching the raw edges, making sure the side seams match up then pin together.

Sew upper band to the upper panel. 

For the waist bands, lay one right side up and lay the other on top, also right side up, matching the side seams. The edges of stretch knit fabric tends to curl and move around, so I've quickly hand stitched the waist bands together. You don't need to do this, but it will keep the pieces in the right spot while you're sewing them together. I've used a lighter colour thread so the stitching is more visible. 

Pin the waistbands to the upper panel, right sides together and sew. Then pin the lower edge of the waistbands to the lower panel, right sides together. 

You now have all the main pieces together as one large rectangle. I used a picture of the top rather than the dress here because it's easier to see the whole and how the pieces go together.

Pin the safety pin firmly to the end of the elastic, and thread into the upper band. To make sure the other end doesn't disappear into the band, pin it to the band opening. 

Pin the side seams so the pins won't stab you while you try the dress on. Make sure the elastic ends won't disappear into the bands.

Try the dress on in front of the mirror and adjust the elastics until you are happy with the fit then re pin the elastic ends. 

Pin the side seam, making sure the elastic ends are pinned securely. 

Sew the side seam. 

Frill hem 

For a plain hem, scroll down further.

Sew both the side seams for the frill. 

Overlock the lower edge of the frill and iron flat. 

Set the sewing machine to the longest stitch size, and sew in a straight line, close to edge around the top of the frill. Don't back stitch at the beginning or end and leave a long tail of thread at the beginning and end. I've used a white thread so it will be visible, use the colour thread you're using to sew the top/dress together. 

Gently pull the threads to gather the fabric. Be careful not to break the threads, because you'll have to unpick the stitching and sew it again. 

Gather until the frill is the same size as the lower panel and pin together, right sides together matching the side seams and overlock with the gathers on top. 

Finished frill

Plain hem

Overlock the lower edge and turn over 2cm / .78 inches and pin. 

Sew the hem in a zig zag stitch. A zig zag stitch will stretch with the fabric, normal straight stitches may snap. 

I've used a black thread on the blue to match the black bands, use a matching or contrasting thread, as you like. 

Straps

Fold and sew the straps with the right sides facing.

Pin the safety pin firmly to the seam 

Thread the pin into the strap 

Move the pin through to till it comes out the other end

Pull the pin through, the strap now has the seam on the inside

Pin the safety pin firmly to the end of the elastic

Thread the elastic into the strap

Keeping the seam in the middle on one of the sides.

The side without the seam will be the top of the strap. 

Strap placement

 Put on the dress/top and decide... no straps, simple straps or some thing a little different. 

For simple over the shoulder straps, where the kind of bra you will wear with the dress/top, and pin the straps in place over your bra straps. 

Once you have decided where you want your straps to be, pin in place. Getting the straps pinned in place at the back can be a bit tricky. I took the top off, estimated where I wanted the straps to be, pinned them and put the top on again until they were right. 

Keeping 1cm / .39 inches of the strap hanging below the upper band seam, pin the straps to the upper band, at the top and at the seam line.

 Sew the straps to the upper band, sewing close to top edge and and then close to the seam. 

Your dress or top is ready to wear and enjoy! I would love to see pictures! Please let me know if it's ok to post them. If you need help with this tutorial, please contact me.

 Email 

makingfattyfashion@gmail.com 

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